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Setting Up Camp: Connecting Utilities at an RV Hookup Site

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An RV connected to electrical, water, and sewer hookups at a campground utility pedestal

Key Takeaways

Always connect utilities in the correct sequence: electric last when setting up, electric first when breaking down.
A surge protector and pressure regulator are essential tools to protect your RV's systems.
Never open the sewer valve until your black tank is at least two-thirds full.
Connecting water without a pressure regulator risks damaging your RV's internal plumbing.
Inspect all connections for leaks or issues before settling in for the night.
15–30 min
Beginner

Why Connection Order Matters

Connecting utilities at a full-hookup campsite isn't just a matter of plugging things in — the sequence you follow directly affects safety and equipment longevity. The standard order is sewer first, water second, electric last. Breaking down reverses that: disconnect electric first, then water, then sewer. This order protects your plumbing from pressure damage, your electrical system from surges, and prevents sewer gas from becoming a nuisance while you're still working.

If you're new to RVing or planning your first outing, the first RV trip guide covers the broader context of campsite setup alongside driving and planning basics. And if you're choosing between campground types, this breakdown of U.S. campground categories explains which sites offer full hookups and how to find them.

What you will need

A level, assigned full-hookup campsite with electrical pedestal, water spigot, and sewer cleanout
RV power cord (30-amp or 50-amp, matching your rig's service)
Potable-water-rated drinking hose (white or blue, not a standard garden hose)
Inline water pressure regulator
Sewer hose kit with fittings and support ramp
Rubber gloves for sewer connections
Surge protector or EMS (Electrical Management System) compatible with your amperage
Wheel chocks and leveling blocks already in place before connecting utilities
Required

Surge Protector / EMS

Shields your RV's electrical system from power surges, low voltage, and wiring faults at the pedestal.

Required

Inline Water Pressure Regulator

Limits campground water pressure to a safe level (typically 40–50 PSI) to protect your RV's plumbing.

Required

Potable Water Hose

A food-grade hose rated for drinking water, used to carry fresh water from the spigot to your RV inlet.

Required

Sewer Hose Kit

A flexible hose with bayonet fittings that connects your RV's drain outlet to the campsite sewer cleanout.

Required

Sewer Hose Support Ramp

Creates a downward slope from the RV drain outlet to the cleanout so waste flows completely by gravity.

Required

Rubber Gloves

Protects your hands during sewer hose connections and disconnections.

Optional

Power Adapter (Dogbone)

Adapts your RV's power cord plug to a different pedestal receptacle type when amperages differ.

Step-by-Step: Connecting at a Full-Hookup Site

Follow these steps each time you set up at a site with electric, water, and sewer connections. The process typically takes 15 to 30 minutes once you're practiced.

1

Position and level your RV

Before touching any utility connection, park and level your rig completely. Set your wheel chocks and deploy leveling blocks or your automatic leveling system. Utilities must be connected to a stationary RV — connecting power or water and then repositioning the vehicle risks damaging hoses, cords, and fittings.

Tip: Confirm your slide-outs are not yet extended if you're still maneuvering into position — extend them only once you're level and parked.
2

Inspect the utility pedestal

Walk to the site's electrical pedestal and examine it before plugging anything in. Look for visible damage, scorch marks, corrosion, or a tripped breaker. Check whether the available receptacles match your RV's power cord — 30-amp (TT-30) or 50-amp (14-50). If the pedestal looks damaged or the breaker is tripped and won't reset, notify campground staff before proceeding.

Tip: Use a simple outlet tester or your EMS to verify correct wiring polarity at the pedestal — faulty wiring is more common at campgrounds than most people expect.
3

Connect the sewer hose

Put on your rubber gloves. Attach the sewer hose to your RV's drain outlet first, ensuring the bayonet fitting is fully locked. Run the hose to the campsite cleanout, using your support ramp to maintain a continuous downward slope. Secure the end fitting into the cleanout and use a sewer donut or rubber seal to prevent odors from escaping. Keep both tank valves closed at this stage.

For a deeper look at how the gray and black tank systems work, see the guide to RV holding tanks.

Warning: Never leave your black tank valve open continuously. This causes liquids to drain away while solids accumulate, leading to blockages. Open it only when the tank is at least two-thirds full.
4

Connect the water supply

Thread your inline pressure regulator onto the campground spigot first — always attach it to the source, not the RV inlet. Connect your potable water hose to the regulator, then run the other end to your RV's city water inlet. Hand-tighten all connections; over-tightening plastic fittings can crack them. Turn the spigot on slowly and check the hose and fittings for drips before going further.

Tip: Keep a short section of the hose above ground where it connects to the spigot to prevent it from collecting dirt and contaminants.
Warning: Never use a standard garden hose for your water supply. Garden hoses are not rated for potable water and can leach chemicals or harbor bacteria.
5

Connect shore power

Plug your surge protector or EMS into the pedestal receptacle first, then plug your RV's power cord into the protector. Confirm the pedestal breaker is off before plugging in if that option is available, then switch it on after the cord is seated. Allow your EMS a moment to analyze the circuit — most units display a green indicator when power is safe to accept.

Tip: Shore power is connected last during setup and disconnected first during teardown — this sequence protects both your RV and the campground infrastructure.
6

Verify all connections and check for issues

Do a full walk-around before heading inside. Check the sewer hose for kinks or low spots where waste could pool. Confirm the water hose has no drips at either connection point. Verify the power cord is fully seated and not kinked or running where it could be tripped over. Inside, confirm your water pump is off (you're on city water now) and that 120V appliances are powering normally.

Keep a Setup Checklist in Your Rig

Even experienced RVers benefit from a laminated checklist stored in a consistent spot — a cabinet door near the entry, for example. It only takes one missed step (like forgetting to switch off the water pump after connecting city water) to cause a problem. A checklist costs nothing and removes the guesswork after a long drive.

Campground Power Is Not Always Reliable

Pedestal wiring at some campgrounds — particularly older private parks — can be incorrectly wired, supply low voltage, or deliver power spikes. A quality surge protector or Electrical Management System (EMS) is not optional equipment. Plugging directly into an unverified pedestal without protection puts your converter, refrigerator, and other 120V appliances at risk.

Once you're set up and the season winds down, your next task will be protecting everything you've just connected from winter damage. The RV winterization walkthrough covers what needs to happen before storage to prevent burst pipes and freeze damage.

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